What Are The Reasons that Rose Cuttings Fail When Propogated










Hi again it’s Jason from Fraser Valley rose farm, and I have to say was already stated that I’ve gotten fairly good now and propagating plants from cuttings is wouldn’t be much of a business without it substantially. Now everything in my greenhouse here all of this stuff on the floor elsewhere in the greenhouse is all propagated from cuttings. And I actually make a pretty reasonable income selling the resulting plants. So this wasn’t always the case I have to be upfront. Early on I struggled an awful lot with it and although the topic may have been how do I succeed in cuttings, really question I was asking was Why do I keep on failing? When you see the plants dry out when you see the plants begin rotting hammer coming from the soil, you wonder what did I do wrong? I’m going to break those failures up into three basic categories. Number one is choosing the wrong plant or the wrong stage of growth. So it all comes down to the source of the plant. Number two comes down to technique how do you make that cutting and number three, it comes down to the growing environment and all three are equally important to deciding whether your plant will dry out whether it will rot or whether it will route and shoot in that order and make a successful cutting. Have a look at some of the failures and then we’ll work forward to some of the successful ways of doing this. So I have two cuttings here and the first one you can see is still quite firm and plump and green with those red buds on it. So it’s it’s actually holding moisture quite nicely but as I move down you can also see that from the base is that tilde Hill black rock that’s moving up the stem and a little frog. You can see that thorn on the right hand side is starting to darken around that it’s just working its way up the stem it will kill the entire cutting ultimately move over to the right here. You can see that basically the opposite is true. The stem is plump and green at the base and even has some leaves emerging from that button on the right. So I have every reason to believe that it’s developing roots down below the first, however, up above at some point or another, it just wasn’t enough moisture in that section of to the next note so the plant died back in that section. Now, early on, you can definitely take some clues from the way that you’re cutting fails typically if it’s raining, I would interpret that as 2.2 Humidity still of air and maybe not enough temperature. That might be the way you would interpret it depending on how your setup is. If you look over to the right there, and if it dies out, you might interpret that as too little moisture, too much air movement and too much temperature. So if you’re balancing out your growing conditions that might be the way you interpret it but it is important not to read too much into that because ultimately, if your cuttings are going to fail, it’s going to be in one of these two modes. Either it will dry out before it rots or will rot before it dries up. It’s gonna be one of those two things if it’s not going to succeed with developing roots and then shooting after that. So then begs the question are the conditions that make it most likely that your plant will succeed in rooting quickly before it suffers one of these two fates. Let’s get right down to the root causes here. Cause number one why your cuttings may fail is you’re choosing to take cuttings or very difficult variety or you’re taking cuttings of a variety that route would rip them better by a different method than the one you’re using. And how would you know you can go on forever trying to rule in particular rows or a particular hydrangea from softwood or semi hardwood or hardwood cuttings. Only not to know that it roots very easily from a different kind of cutting for most amount for Fila hydrangeas I find they take fairly easily for most stages, but this year, I found they take much much better from tip cuttings than they ever do from semi hardwood cuts. Who knew I didn’t until I tried it. So here’s the way you could approach that you could say let’s do it the hard way you know and you can start from A to Z abelia to Sisyphus, and try every stage of cutting and every kind of plant and really try out everything. Or you could do it the easier way because let’s face it, the propagation community has tried all of this before and generally they’re very willing to share that information. If you go on to the culture guides for most of the major horticulture industry partners like ball or Walters they will give you culture guides that talk about the specifics of temperature and humidity of time in the tray and everything to make your cuttings or on the amateur end a wealth of information a go to your Facebook groups, those places like the probably the best one right now I find is I love plant propagation which is my campaigns group on Facebook and the people there are wonderful about sharing their propagation information because let’s face it, we’re all geeks in this regard. We all love trying new things and sharing our successes and maybe even our failures. So that’s where you should start don’t don’t spend a lot of time on a plant with just one method and keep on failing and never think too well. Am I using the wrong method? Am I picking things up at the wrong time of year? I can give you some specific directions or tips on this. And number one is that when in doubt, I usually start with semi hardwood. I find that method to be adoptable on a wide range of perennials and shrubs. There may be things that take a little bit better from softwood cuttings, but even if you can get it from softwood cuttings, you can usually get from semi hardwood as well. The second specific tip I’ll give you on this is that in general, the veterans condition the more robust both the plant and the section of the plant take the cutting from the more likely it is to succeed. So if you’re taking it from a very healthy plant and a very healthy sector and have a very healthy plant, you give yourself the very best chance second set of big reasons that could have to do with your success or failure comes down to the cutting technique itself. Although there are plenty of videos out there, including my own where you can go and look up specific cutting techniques for different plants. Here I just want to focus in on a few of the differences in technique that I think can make a big difference to your success or failure. So number one, start with a clean, sharp pair of pruners clean and sharp because you don’t want to introduce in any bacteria or fungus that will then turn the rock organism on your cutting and you also want a clean cut because the bottom of that STEM is going to very much reduce your chances of success in terms of what to clean it with. I used to say something more complicated but simpler is probably better. Lysol is readily available, not too expensive, and it won’t rust your pruners. Second thing that I will highlight is make sure that you take your cutting. Just below note. The note was the place where the wood comes out. I’ll show you an alternative. The further you go from that note, the further you are away from the tissue that can differentiate and create the callus at the bottom of your cutting. Even a quarter of an inch can make a big difference in success or failure. So definitely target that. And the third thing I’m going to highlight here is the use of rooting hormone, which is in general for a soft wood cutting or something and very active growth it’s a low levels rooting hormone and for things that are in dormancy is a higher level of rooting hormone but follow the directions because it can vary from variety to variety. I use it it increases my success rate as I take my cutting some people try to substitute it with things like honey or cinnamon, or bananas or apple cider vinegar or other things like that. And although I can’t say in every single case that I’ve tested these, the ones that I’ve tried have not been not six or frequent, little endemic that supports their use in the way that routing hormones themselves based on iba will improve your success rate. So

that’s one place where you can get the final area I want to cover in this video comes down to the drawing environment of your cuttings and really it comes down to controlling for variables once you’ve stuck those cuttings are your controlling light, you’re controlling temperature, you’re controlling humidity and you’re controlling soil moisture. It varies a lot depending on what stage your cuttings are taking. So if you’re taking something in active growth or a tip cutting, typically the higher the temperature the higher the light level, the higher Lloyd insure the soil moisture the higher the humidity, you’re cutting plants after even possibly need for it to route quickly and to get through to the next stage. If you’re going to semi hardwood cuttings, choose something in the middle for all of those things. And for hardwood cuttings, you’re generally gonna want lower temperatures, lower light levels, less humidity held around the plant and less soil moisture. So those are general variables and you’re going to have to play with them a little bit to see what is most successful for you based on the cuttings as I said earlier if you noticed that a lot of your plants are drying up that is wilting or shriveling from the top, then you may have to push your environment a little more towards the wetter. Whereas if you’re finding that they are rotting from eating consistently, that probably means you’re going to have to push the other way to a slightly drier, a little more air circulation and trying to cut down or sorry, increase the heat a little bit. So that doesn’t rot so quickly. So these are your these are your growing environment considerations. I definitely go through that a number of my other videos, but I’ll just leave it right there for now let’s just say these are the common causes, why your cuttings will fail. If you have any questions, drop those down below and I’ll see what I can do to help thank you so much for watching today.


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